Tuesday, February 28, 2012

Los Barriles to San Diego






Feb 13

Laundry day! Found a most excellent lavanderia in Los Barriles and after dropping off our clothes we discovered a great store next door with all kinds of funny tee shirts and piñatas!  One of the piñatas, obviously left over from Christmas, was Santa!  Nothing would do but Buck and Ross had to have one each!  We also hit the grocery store, the chocolate shop and the guy selling fresh shrimp on the beach…Dinner!

Back to the beach.... we will be sad to leave Los Barriles…our favorite beach but we really want to get to Loreto to check out Carnival.


Feb 14




Happy Valentine’s Day and the flower sellers are out in force today

Back to La Paz and ready to explore some more of this fine city.  We are in a RV park near to the centre of the city so it’s not such a long drive.  Get settled into this park where we have another caravan of 4 rigs plus a couple of single rigs and we all got to the park at the same time!!!!  Then off to get some presents for Heather’s daughter and onto the pottery place. 

The woman at the pottery place explained that this is a family run operation and do they have beautiful  things!  We bought a couple of plates, a sun (imagine that!), a hot chocolate pot, and a couple of mugs.  Heather bought a few things while Buck slept on the husband bench.  Very excited young girls when they realized there were two Santas in the place, especially when one of the Santas offered them some candy canes!!! 

Our friends Larry and Gail in San Jose del Cabo have recommended an Italian restaurant to us: La Pazta just off the Malecon.  The food there was great….pasta, gnocchi, shrimp, and garlic.  We love all the Mexican favorites but it’s sure nice to have something different!

Had a little walk along the malecon (boardwalk) and watched while people scrambled to get their booths or rides up and running for the start of Carnival in a couple of days.  



A fast trip to Mega to pick up a few groceries.  Back to the RV and get ready to roll again tomorrow.  The RV park was right on the highway and we had +++ noise all night.  Not too conducive to good sleep.

Feb 15

Up early and hooked up……in fact we were one of the first rigs ready to go……..that is a first for this trip!!!  Off on Hwy 1 north and heading to Loreto.  Roads were for the main part straight with good shoulders………until we left Ciudad Constitucion.  Then the winding hills through the mountains started.  As we were coming into view of the Sea of Cortez we are on a steep, narrow, twisty road and as if we needed more adrenalin we hear on our CB that there is a VERY wide load coming up the hill and we should be looking for a place to pull over.  All well and fine most of the time but we are starting a series of hair pin turns at that moment.  However luck is our side and we find a wide spot in the road.  Sure as shooting not a couple of minutes had gone by when we see this behemoth of a transport tractor pulling a massive front end loader up the hill and as it passes our rig we have less than two feet  between us and IT!  Needless to say we took the next few miles carefully!



Finally arrive in Loreto, the original capital of Baja California when this area was being settled.  


The sculpted ficus in downtown Loreto




John, our intrepid leader has recommended a good restaurant – The Giggling Dolphin – for dinner.  The RV park is very small and we are jammed in like sardines.  There may be about 3 feet between some of our rigs.  Getting out will be twice as hard as we have had other people come into the park and it is now completely full.

Ross and Buck discovered this delightful little hotel right downtown off the main square.


































We all pile into our car for a quick look at this very old town then decide to check out the Giggling Dolphin.  We had a great time.  The grill is placed under the hood of an old truck, the bar is the top half of a cabin cruiser (bar supplies are kept below decks), and there is a hatch door from the HMCS Yukon – a Canadian destroyer that was scuttled to be used as an artificial reef!  Buck is an old sea dog after serving 28 years in the Canadian navy so he is rightfully excited but this unusual find! 




























Of course there are the inevitable Mariachis but these two are pretty good so (for a small fee) they perform ‘Coo coo, Roo Paloma’ a favorite and ‘La Cucaracha’ Heather’s new favorite!
The Mission at Loreto 

When we get back to the rig before we can settle in for the night we have visitors!  We never know how some of our parties start but we always have a great time……..and this is the same.  Before we knew it we were entertaining a few other couples…..and their dogs inside Prince Reindeer (it was too cold to sit outside.)


Feb 16

We are off to see the mission at San Javier.  It is a hour travel into the mountains on mostly paved twisty mountain roads except the last 10 miles which is washboard gravel/dirt road.






 The town may be old and now have only a few residents but the cobblestone streets are clean and the entrance is quite impressive.





Pillared gate posts leading onto a wide intersection – one way leads to the church, the other leads to the school. 





The church was built in the 1700s and is beautiful.  It is one of  the earliest mission church on the Baja – beautiful paintings, incredible woodwork, and gilt everything!  We are then invited to go on a tour of a local farm.  The weather had clouded over and the wind has picked up so Ross (in his t-shirt and shorts) decides to stay in Buck’s truck while everyone else goes off hiking. 



















The working farm is quite amazing. Remnants of some of the work of the original Friars is still evident including a 300 year old olive tree that is still bearing!  Our guide, Guillermo, has lived on the farm all his 70 years…and he looks about 50!  Something to be said for the quiet lifestyle.



























In addition to the 1000 olive trees there are grapes, radishes, peas, beans, squash, corn, fighting cocks, and his race horse! 










There is also an elaborate irrigation scheme which makes it all work.

We spotted this mother hummingbird sitting on her nest....look closely...





We spotted this classic example of Mexican wiring in the courtyard in front of the church...it's flat on the ground...maybe it never rains there??














After the tour we had Machaca burritos made by Guillermo's family and got to meet Guillermo’s granddaughters….





On the drive home we stopped off to view some small native cave paintings that are quite old...

















Back to the RV and off to dinner at Giggling Dolphin (again).  Ross started feeling unwell halfway through dinner with cramping and some nausea.  This continued throughout the evening, so when Ed went to bed that night Ross stayed up for a while.  Only when Ross decided to go to bed did he have an unusual problem…….blood in his stool……lots of old blood.  For those of you who may be squeamish suffice it to say we were both very upset but decided to leave it until the morning.  Ross stayed up the rest of the night.

Feb 17/18……it’s kinda a blur!!

Ross did not have a good night and by 7:00 he again had another bout of blood in his stool.  We talked to Buck and Heather, then phoned our caravan leaders.  John Smith came right over and Heather and Ross jumped into his truck for a fast trip to the hospital.  Needless to say, nothing goes according to plan.  We were all slated to hook up our rigs and head back over to the beach in Santispac.  That trip was held up a bit while Ross was still being seen in the new hospital of Loreto…….actually more like a glorified clinic - limited equipment, staff who were very new to medicine, and an ever increasingly frustrating problem with the language.

Long story cut short, Ross was not given any definitive diagnosis but was given a prescription for pain pills and Ranitidine.  By this time the rest of the caravan has gone on without us, but dear friends Buck and Heather have stayed behind to help in any way they can. 

After blood work at an outside laboratory (no blood can be analyzed by the hospital – no equipment), and a return trip to the hospital, we phone the insurance company back in Ottawa to update them on the file (we had let them know when we originally went to the hospital).  They were not happy that nothing had been clarified and demanded that Ross be sent to a larger community hospital. They were talking about flying him home with either Ed or Heather and sending someone to drive the RV and car back to Canada!

So later in the afternoon………after the hospital has found a driver and escort…….Ross was taken to the General Hospital in Ciudad Constitucion.  This facility is right out of the 1950s with corresponding equipment………for example the IV pole Ross was given was rusted on the bottom 1/3, the wheels did not roll (you had to lift the pole off the ground if you wanted to go anywhere), and it had to be leaning against a wall otherwise it fell over!!!!!!! 

Ed and Buck arrived and tried to get some understanding of what was going on ……..all to no avail………the docs at this hospital were as confused as the staff  in Loreto.  Ross was kept overnight and released in the morning with the orders to take the pain pills and Ranitidine and get home ASAP for a possible colonoscopy.  So Buck, Ed, and Ross headed back to Loreto to consider the options.  We tried to get a flight out of the area but there was nothing available for another week.  Ed rationalized that in the time we sat around waiting to fly out we could be back on USA soil…………..so we decide to head out and drive as fast as we can for the border.

Feb 19

Ross is not feeling too well but we head out to the beach at Santispac near Mulege and arrive in good time.  Ross went to bed while Ed, Buck, and Heather went over to the beach bar for mega-strong margaritas.  Heather had one………the others had more than that and came home in a convoluted manner giggling all the way!!  When they could be a little more serious (without devolving into gales of laughter each time they looked at each other) we came to the decision to press on without the group as quickly as we could. 

Feb 20

The traveling grocery store began early this morning with three or four sellers walking up and down the beach.  One such seller had his 10 year old son with him so we gave him the last batch of “goodies” we had brought down with us……….a very excited Dad and son!!

Feb 21

On the road early. Left with the group but they were only going to Guerrerro Negro and we wanted to get further ahead. John suggested that we could make El Pabellon (The Pavilion) at San Quintin, and we drove like mad  but only got to El Rosario before it got too dark to drive.  We found an RV park that had questionable power, water, and sewer.  There were no other amenities except a pot holed parking area……….but they had room for us that night and no cucarachas!  We (Buck and Ed – my saviours) drove about 250 miles over the most horrible roads you can imagine this day!




We bid goodbye to Baja California Sur


Feb 22

Strawberry fields forever!







Ross is feeling a bit better and everyone is more relaxed.  We are headed for the border—about a 200 mile drive a snap on good roads! As we get closer to the crossing from Mexico into the USA we also find more military checkpoints.  Some are cursory and we are waved through, and others want to see everything in our rig…..and our car.  Found a group of soldiers checking out the radio while others were searching the trunk.  One young man found the reindeer antlers that attach to the car windows  during Christmas……..he was trying to attach them to his head, then tried to make like one of them was an older model cell phone!!!!


We spotted these two fellows catching the action on the roof adjacent to one of the  many  army inspection sites in Ensenada
We crossed over to US soil about 3:30PM at Otay having to wait in the amazingly long lineup 
for 1.5hours (that is apparently quite a short wait).  We saw two vehicles collide into each other
while trying to maneuver through the line.  Thankfully the Otay police and the border crossing 
guards held the rest of the cars at bay while we swerved around the accident (the two drivers
were still arguing and refusing to move) and we were escorted through a side lane that led to a 
gigantic X-ray machine.  We cleared customs easily  with little questioning and were on our 
way to the KOA campground in Chula Vista (near San Diego).

Feb 23

Ed and Heather headed off  to Trader Joe’s leaving Ross and  Buck to their own devices.

When we returned loaded with TJ’s goodies we realized Ross was feeling lousy and was 
acting “strange”.  On their insistence Ed and Ross went to the Emergency room of Scripps 
Mercy Hospital in Chula Vista. 

The attending physician was great…….a mother earth type who not only looked like our 
wonderful GP back home but also had a similar name! Dr. Bruder ordered a slew of tests
including TWO CAT scans!  Ross was poked, prodded, X-rayed, and a myriad of other tests. 

After 12 hours in Emergency Ross is released at 2:30AM with reports and everything on a 
couple of CDs (good idea for other hospitals to adopt).  Everything came back 
normal………..so looks like we are back to square one.



Ed was more than a little tired as he had been either with Ross or driving  back and forth from
the hospital (checking on the dogs, bringing Heather to see Ross, etc.).  We made it  back to
the RV at 0300 (3:00 AM) and collapsed. We will save the stories about the other patients in 
the ER for later!

Feb 24

A very late morning…not up til 9:00!

Bruce (a dear friend from Sooke and fellow Santa) and Buck had found the Family Pancake 
 House just up the road on our last visit before we left for Mexico.  Buck convinced us (not that 
difficult) to give it a try. 

What a find!  Delicious food, unbelievable portions and great servers (we saw one of them
carrying 5  plates down one arm and she had two more in the other hand!!!), and all for a great 
price.

We had planned on leaving the campground today but with the visit to ER etc. we are all 
bagged so we all feel it is best to wait another day.  We rescued Ross’ Santa stuff he had left 
at the KOA and found places to store it in the motor home…….the beast is getting full!!!! 

We grilled steaks and had roasted potatoes with  asparagus/beans/onions in a teriyaki
sauce………..good old American/Canadian food for dinner and sat around with some of the 
other travelers who had crossed the border the day before.  They had spent about 3.5 hours in 
the line at the border and had arrived late that afternoon.  Good evening with lots of laughs.

Feb 25

We hitch up the wagons and are back on the road…….But wait……..the roads are wide, there 
are paved shoulders, and the signs are in English…..HMM, must be America!!  The trip to 
Fresno is pleasant with a few stops for fuel and potty breaks.  We park in our regular RV park 
(Fresno) and get settled in. 

Took Buck and Heather for a quick tour of Fresno our second ‘home’ and introduced them to 
Five Guys restaurant.  This place is one of the best places for hamburgers……..and that’s 
good because at Five Guys Hamburgers and fries are the only thing they serve!!  Walked 
around River Park mall for a bit, then home for a nightcap and sleep.

Feb 26

We (actually Ed) made Eggs Fresno for breakfast for Buck and Heather.  He uses Trader 
Joe’s multi-grain frozen waffles toasted, tops them with ham slices, a fried egg, and TJ’s 
Hollandaise sauce…….his version of Eggs Benedict.  Very good and we only have those on 
 special occasions, just in case my physician reads this missive!!

Took Buck and Heather around Fashion Fair mall (Ross’ “Santa” mall) where Heather did a bit 
of shopping, then out to Kearney Park. 

Kearney was a visionary who arrived in Fresno at the turn of the previous century and bought 
up about 5000 acres southwest of Fresno. His first task was to plant an avenue of palm trees 
fom the center of Fresno out to his property….about seven miles…most still survive.

He then built a large house to live in and run his farms. Ultimately this house would be the farm
superintendent’s home while Kearney planned a much grander ‘Chateau’ to be built nearby.

The estate produced  vegetables, fruit, cattle, and grapes that were sun dried into raisins.  
Unfortunately Kearney died before he could complete his grandiose plans. The property was 
 willed to the University of California who farmed it until about 1949 when it was transferred to 
the County of Fresno.

The house sat vacant until the mid-1960s when the county transferred responsibility for it to the
Historical Society.  

We took a tour of the house (about 4600 sq. ft., 4 bedrooms--2 of them with ensuites), and 
contains about 80% of the original furnishings.  The park is popular with families who picnic 
under the spreading old growth landscaping. There are other events as well..including an 
annual renaissance fair and a civil war re-enactment.

Stopped at Trader Joe’s for groceries and then home.  Dinner was appys and 
salad………..just what we needed after eating our faces off for the last month!!!!

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