January 26
KOA in Chula Vista to Estero Beach Hotel and RV
resort.
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| Lined up ready to leave the KOA |
Left San Diego for the border and stopped for a
cursory look through. We had gone with
the group two days before and got visas and all the other paper work taken care
of. The young customs officer noticed the Christmas card from Carolyn and
family with Ross as Santa on the front.
He stopped, looked at the picture, then turned to Ross and asked…….”That
you, yes??” He was quite amazed.
Through Tecate which is clean but still a
border town.
Down the road to a winery that only produces 8500 cases per year and most of that is red.
Not bad but will improved with age. As we left the parking lot we scraped the bottom of the rig a bit but got back on the highway and continued into Ensenada.
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| Baja wine country Valle de Guadalupe |
Down the road to a winery that only produces 8500 cases per year and most of that is red.
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| The barrel room |
Not bad but will improved with age. As we left the parking lot we scraped the bottom of the rig a bit but got back on the highway and continued into Ensenada.
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| The parking lot!!! really!!!!!! |
This is an interesting town with huge breakwaters, a long Malecon, and lots of space for freighter loading. Roads are OK but no shoulders!!!
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| Roads? What roads?? |
Got into the RV park and settled.
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| The park entrance, right on the estuary ¡muy bonita! |
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| Prince Reindeer and our 'twin' waiting to park |
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| El Estero...the estuary. The Palapas mark the bar and restaurant where we went later and just beyond the Pacific breaks on the beach |
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| Very settled indeed! |
We would have liked to see more of the town but apparently it is still too close to the border and is quite dangerous to gringos. The drug cartel is king here. The RV site overlooks the ocean and bird sanctuary………and marmots…..lots of marmots!
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| Our first dinner on the road Turns out Buck likes shrimp! Who knew?? |
The group had the first of daily meetings (this
time in the bar) where we had our first margarita in Mexico. Off to dinner with the group. Heather and Ross had the garlic shrimp which
were great and the margaritas continued to flow!! We were in bed by 9PM.
January 27
We are getting low on fuel (we had been told
that we only needed enough fuel for 125 miles……apparently it’s more like 230
miles. Let’s hope we can make it that
far!! While getting the car hitched up,
Ross popped a piece of gum into his mouth and out came a crown filling on his
back molar. Thankfully the tooth has
been fully killed with a good root canal.
No chance to see a dentist until we get to Cabo San Lucas.
The road is mountainous with some very scary
hills, but we made it to our first fuel fill up. One of the group ( A Monaco with the same color scheme as Prince Reindeer) accidently put gasoline in
his diesel pusher so they had to have the tank emptied and refilled – can you
say…OOPS?!
After that we were back on the road and heading to San Quintin,
our stop for the day. Small towns dot
the road with each one of them having at least two topes (speed bumps) that can
rattle your teeth or drop your transmission if taken too quickly!
We arrive in San Quintin at the El Pabellon RV
park.
This park is a little rough to get into (rocky roads) but we were able to camp on hard packed sand with sand dunes in front of us.
We took the dogs for a walk on the beach then let them off the leashes. They were having a great time! Heather had her two who wanted to explore the salt water. So here she is standing up to her ankles watching the dogs. She turned away from the ocean to see what we were doing and got hit with a huge wave!!! She was soaked from the waist down!!!
Quick dinner, some libation, and to bed by 8PM. This travelling stuff is hard work!!!
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| Whale skeleton...the first of many we've seen |
This park is a little rough to get into (rocky roads) but we were able to camp on hard packed sand with sand dunes in front of us.
We took the dogs for a walk on the beach then let them off the leashes. They were having a great time! Heather had her two who wanted to explore the salt water. So here she is standing up to her ankles watching the dogs. She turned away from the ocean to see what we were doing and got hit with a huge wave!!! She was soaked from the waist down!!!
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| Toughing it out on the beach |
Quick dinner, some libation, and to bed by 8PM. This travelling stuff is hard work!!!
January 28
San Quintin to Catavina and Rancho Santa Inez
We enter the badlands of BAJA today. Off down the road by 8AM, pass an inspection
point that was checking for guns, ammo, and drugs. Obviously we don’t look like smugglers as
they waved us through with hardly a glance.
We refuelled and took off to a wide space in the road….Rancho Santa
Inez.
Rancho Santa Inez is about 5000 acres in size
and was owned by an American woman at one time.
Apparently the government highways crew started to plot out a new
highway. She did not want it where they
were going to put it and told them so.
They argued that they knew better and left it at that. She then got in her car and drove to Mexico City,
drove up to the President’s mansion ( a close friend of hers) and had a little
chat with him. Seems the road by her
place was miraculously moved…..and then a runway was put in next to the
road……this for the governor/President of Mexico to fly in to his new favourite
vacation place!!!! Pays to have friends
in high places. Anyway she passed away a
few years ago and the family that worked the land for her has taken over the
place. We pulled the wagons around in a
circle and started to settle down.
Then the accident happened…………..Buck (who never
leaves his truck without his keys) left them on the console. He had also told Heather that she should have
her set of keys with her and she had dutifully put them in her purse…….that was
in the car. Anyway, they both got out of
the car and one of their dogs jumped up on the armrest and locked the doors!! About 12 men and assorted women tried to coax
the dog back to the same area (no luck), Buck and our fearless leader John went
into the nearest town to try and get OnStar to open the doors only to find that
OnStar does not work in Mexico! So with
a little ingenuity and lots of swearing a coat hanger was fashioned into a hook
and with 15 people watching finally were
able to open the door with very little damage to the truck.
Dinner was a plate of Mexican food (tacos,
beans, rice, enchiladas) made by the family who cares for the ranch. After dinner we were reminded that we would
not be able to take any fruit or vegetables past the next checkpoint so many of
us raided our larders and supplied the chefs.
The night sky was amazing – stars everywhere and crystal clear. Buck, Ed, Ross, and one of the other caravan
people, Wayne, stood round and watched the world go by while sipping hot
chocolate or something stronger.
Next day we were loading up the caravan and
Ross took an armload of goodies for the little ones. Then back on the road.
January 29
Catavina to Guerrero Negro
We had some rough roads in places but that soon
opened onto wide smooth spots. That all
came to a sudden stop when we came on 5 miles of road construction. Dusty, dirty, rough, washboarded trails along
an almost finished new highway.
Unfortunately we learned that the contractor pulled out of the project
due to some financial concerns and no work has been done on the road for ages!
We arrive at Guerrero Negro and the Malarrimo
RV park in good time. The park is old
and rather difficult to get into but somehow we are able to park both the RV
and the car. Tonight we will be having
the meeting along with a dinner in the attached restaurant. But first Buck, Ed, and Ross take off to see sunset out at the old lighthouse (Faro Viejo.) Talk about rough
roads!!!! Potholes as big as small VWs,
washboards forever, ruts, and all manner of bad driving.
The old lighthouse has not been used for ages and alongside of the buildings are the remains of an old salt supply line. This area is one of the world’s largest sea salt mining areas. Millions of tons of sea salt are sent around the world from this little village.
The name Guerrero Negro comes from a story that
says an Hawaiian whaling ship was wrecked on the outer reef around the bay. The name of the ship was Black Warrior, or
Guerrero Negro.
The old lighthouse has not been used for ages and alongside of the buildings are the remains of an old salt supply line. This area is one of the world’s largest sea salt mining areas. Millions of tons of sea salt are sent around the world from this little village.
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| One of the huge bumpers where seagoing salt ships used to dock. |
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| What remains of the salt conveyer |
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| Apparently the harbor was prone to silting up and had to be dredged frequently so the mine moved on |
Back to the RV park in time to catch the last
of the meeting and sample a free margarita.
Then a great dinner of scallops, and more libation. To bed early tonight as we are off to see the
whales tomorrow.
January 30
Up early and ready to roll by 8AM (this is
getting to be a habit) and waiting for the bus.
Tour guide was very good and gave all kinds of information. He studied in Georgia USA then came down to
Gro Negro for Christmas with his family.
He fell in love with the place and got a job the next day largely
because of his Georgia accented English!
Two weeks later he was taking his first Baja Winter group. Anyway, he told us that Gro Negro is the world’s largest sea salt mines – most of the salt is used in commercial uses such as road salt. Then down to the pier and onto the boat.
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| Loading up and heading out |
Two weeks later he was taking his first Baja Winter group. Anyway, he told us that Gro Negro is the world’s largest sea salt mines – most of the salt is used in commercial uses such as road salt. Then down to the pier and onto the boat.
Heather is not too keen on going to sea but
with a good life jacket and a sturdy boat she was OK. Boat and skipper were excellent and we got
out to the whaling grounds quickly.
There are so many whales it’s impossible to count them or keep track of
them.
Lots of cows and their calves, some singles, some spy hopping (poking their heads out of the water and having a look around), and a few breaching.
They came close to the boat and a couple of times we were almost able to touch them. One young one was swimming up the boat and decided to dive. One flick of his tail not more than 2 feet from the boat and Buck and another of our tour group were soaked to the skin!!! Thank God Ross brought towels!!
Not too many predators here as the reef stops most of the killer whales and the bay is too shallow and too warm for other sharks.
At times we didn’t know where to look as there were whales all around us. It was amazing………and lots of pictures!!!!
Lots of cows and their calves, some singles, some spy hopping (poking their heads out of the water and having a look around), and a few breaching.
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| If you look closely you can see that this is a mom and baby |
They came close to the boat and a couple of times we were almost able to touch them. One young one was swimming up the boat and decided to dive. One flick of his tail not more than 2 feet from the boat and Buck and another of our tour group were soaked to the skin!!! Thank God Ross brought towels!!
Not too many predators here as the reef stops most of the killer whales and the bay is too shallow and too warm for other sharks.
At times we didn’t know where to look as there were whales all around us. It was amazing………and lots of pictures!!!!
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We spotted these two handsome fellows on the trip back in
Back to the RV to change and then off for fish
tacos……..we had both shrimp and fish tacos……very good. Ross noticed a novelty store next to the taco
stand and explored it. With Buck and Ed
along later we bought a piñata and some candy to go into it. There is to be a beach party soon so that may
come in handy!!!
Dinner at the same restaurant and it was all
very good. And to bed!!!
January 31
Guerrero Negro to San Ignacio
Today we started out slowly as it is foggy. We sit at the side of the road waiting for the fog to lift and after 30 minutes decide to chance it anyway. A little harrowing to say the least. We climb up the mountains and the fog gradually lifts with good weather and good traveling from then on in.
Today we started out slowly as it is foggy. We sit at the side of the road waiting for the fog to lift and after 30 minutes decide to chance it anyway. A little harrowing to say the least. We climb up the mountains and the fog gradually lifts with good weather and good traveling from then on in.
Set up camp and then into town. Very old plaza with an equally old church
build in 1782.
The town’s museum is dedicated to the cave paintings in the area.
Large paintings on rock walls that have to be about 20 feet high. How primitive man managed all that is beyond me!!
Stopped at the plaza and had an ice cream cone, then back to the RV.
Had a drink at the restaurant attached to the RV/hotel we are staying at, and then had dinner there too!! Their margaritas are apparently great. Ed had a few, but Ross’ tongue is quite sore from scraping it along the jagged edges of the missing crown so he just had beer. They only use ice, tequila, lime juice and another splash of tequila on the top. Dinner was great with shrimp, steak and more margaritas and beer.
The town’s museum is dedicated to the cave paintings in the area.
Large paintings on rock walls that have to be about 20 feet high. How primitive man managed all that is beyond me!!
Stopped at the plaza and had an ice cream cone, then back to the RV.
Had a drink at the restaurant attached to the RV/hotel we are staying at, and then had dinner there too!! Their margaritas are apparently great. Ed had a few, but Ross’ tongue is quite sore from scraping it along the jagged edges of the missing crown so he just had beer. They only use ice, tequila, lime juice and another splash of tequila on the top. Dinner was great with shrimp, steak and more margaritas and beer.
February 1
San Ignacio to Santispac Beach
We leave San Ignacio and head into the
mountains …. Again. Finally we drop
down to the Sea of Cortez and continue onto the little village of Mulege (Pronounced:
MooLaHay) and then onto the beach of
Santispac. We will be staying two days
here and the beach is beautiful.
There are some Canadians who camp here all winter long!! Also this is the first time we have experienced the moving department store.
There are all kinds of locals who walk the beach between RVs selling jewelry, clothes, fruit, veggies, baking, etc. , etc. Fun times!!!
There are some Canadians who camp here all winter long!! Also this is the first time we have experienced the moving department store.
There are all kinds of locals who walk the beach between RVs selling jewelry, clothes, fruit, veggies, baking, etc. , etc. Fun times!!!
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| The catch of the day from the 'moving department store' fresh lobster tails, shrimp (though that sounds like an oxymoron...they were huge! We also got fresh veggies, amazing baking, (pan dulce and jalapeno cheese bread) |
Santispac used to be an actual small village
but the land was sold and everyone was evicted. Their shacks were destroyed and
then the new owner/developer pulled out of the project so the beach was left to
dry campers.
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