Tecolote to Los Barriles

Monday  February 6

Off from Tecolote and on our way to Cabo San Lucas.  We have driven this road in the past and are expecting little difficulties.  The road looks to be rather straight and being that it is a major part of the highway system we expect it to be wide with good shoulders………….WRONG!!!!  The road to Todos Santos is great, but just south of there we run into construction. 

It appears the engineers for this highway improvement have a warped sense of humour.  There are long stretches of dirt roads, potholes, dust, massive machinery, and flag people all skirting around the new portion of the road.  But then there is what appears to be an equally long stretch of pavement – straight, paved, and wide. 

Then, and this is where the twisted sense of humour comes into play,  when we get on the paved portion, there are topes (speed bumps) everywhere so again we have to slow down.  And these topes are not just little rough patches………….no, topes come in many forms – small serial bumps that can extend for ¼ mile, small speed bumps on either side of a township, or massively large bumps that can take out an undercarriage in the blink of an eye.  And of course there are the ‘phantom’ topes…these are ones that diabolical highway types PAINT on the road to aggravate hapless turistas!!

When  we finally reach Cabo and find the RV park  it is large, tiered, and has a great view of the ocean. After settling in we head out to that mecca for all RVers……….Wal-Mart/Costco.  And guess what?  Both stores look just like the ones in the US/Canada!!

We have contacted our friends, Gail and Larry and they are going to meet us for dinner  at the restaurant in the RV park which, it turns out is one of their favorite spots!

The development along the corridor between San Jose del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas

The view from the restaurant attached to the RV park is breathtaking.  And the dinner was great.  First some margaritas all around, then appys of guacamole and chips, tortilla soup, then main course of tuna for Ross and Ed cannot remember what he had through the haze of too much tequila.  All we remember was the dinner was great and the company was even better. 

For desert  we, of course, had flan…….more margaritas (which were a little too tart for everyone so the waiter brought the bottle of Grand Marnier and the good tequila so he could free pour to get the sweetness up), a round of tequila shooters compliments of  the manager who realized he had two Santas at his restaurant. We stupidly topped the evening off with Spanish coffee au flambé – impressive but we didn’t really need the extra alcohol.  We poured ourselves home and passed out!  Like we said, great dinner!!!!

Tuesday  February  7

We took Heather to San Jose del Cabo so she could get her hair done, we could get our laundry done, and Ross could get his crown re-attached..but we could not find Larry or Gail.  We left the laundry at the lavanderia and took a tour around the town (my has that town changed – construction everywhere) then sat down for a coffee that turned into a lunch. 

Waiter was great and easy on the eyes (if you know what I mean).  The café had free Wi-Fi and that is how we found out our appointments were for the next day!!  So off to explore some more. 

The tiny town of La Playa San Jose (just east of SJDC on the estuary)  used to be difficult to get to through dry river beds, dirty, dusty roads and hair pin turns.  The village had a few permanent residents (usually all fishermen)  a couple of bars and two tiny grocery stores.  It was on the other side of the estuary from San Jose and people usually only went there to get a fishing trip in small pangas drawn up on the beach.  Today the road is four lanes over the arroyo with a massive marina housing multi-million boats, and a fleet of shining pangas!

The town still only has two stores but they have expanded and are now called super minis!!  After our expedition it’s back to the RV and enjoy the afternoon sun.  Some of the caravan have gone on a fishing trip to try to catch some tuna. 

Later that day we went back in to San Jose to pick up our laundry and show Buck a bit of the town.  Dinner was again at the same café and the same waiter served us.  He said that he usually works 12 to 15 hours a day , six days a week.  His English is great as he also said he used to work as a waiter in Seattle.  We asked why he left……….his answer…….”It wasn’t my choice.”  In other words, Immigration had probably asked him to leave!!!!

Wednesday February 8

Back to San Jose for Heather’s hair appointment and Ross’ dental appointment.  As some of you know Ross has a deep phobic fear of anything dental so he popped an Ativan in the morning and another closer to the time of his appointment………the rest of the day was a bit of a blur for him!!!!!  Met Larry at their beautiful home and he showed  us around the gardens…amazing.  There are papaya trees, plumeria, orange, grapefruit, tangelo, and lime trees, a sparkling swimming pool and a view out to the 7^th tee on the municipal golf course.  The house has 5 bedrooms (4 up and one down, a bedroom/office combo). 

No one in the beauty salon spoke English and Heather does not speak Spanish…a problem!  Thank God Larry was along and could explain what she wanted.  Then off to the dentist.  While Ross was filling in the forms Larry and the dentist started talking car races.  They race off road a number of times a year and were getting ready for a race near La Paz in the next couple of weeks. 

The dentist looked at the tooth, and then the crown.  He asked if Ross spoke Spanish……..”Enough to get myself in trouble” said Ross.  He then apologized for his English but explained that he could put the crown back on but only as a temporary solution and that Ross would have to see a dentist when he got back home. 

Some of you know that Super Glue was invented accidently and has been used for household purposes and in industrial applications for many years, so it should come as no surprise to hear that this intrepid dentist cleaned the tooth, cleaned the crown, then smeared Super Glue on both surfaces and bonded them together.  After a little bit of clean up, Ross was out of the chair and both Larry and the dentist were back talking car racing!!!  The cost…….$450 pesos (about $40)!!!!

After that bit of drama we picked Heather up (hair looks good and as she says she isn’t bald so it has been a good day) and we all went out for lunch.  Gail met us at the restaurant and the meal was great.  

When Ross and Ed first met Gail and Larry they had a B&B, also a restaurant (Salvador Deli), and were in the property management business.  They now have closed the B&B, sold the restaurant, and have cut back on the number of properties they manage.

The restaurant has gone through a couple of hands and is now a delightful space called Habaneros which is where we had  lunch.  Great times.  Explored a bit more of San Jose then back home.  

Thursday February 9

This was our day to ‘do’ Cabo San Lucas.  We wanted to connect with Chris MacClure and his partner whom we had met on previous excursions. He is a very talented painter and they used to own the Golden Cactus Gallery. We had heard through Gail and Larry that they were looking forward to seeing and that they would be in the gallery every day from ten AM to noon.

We got to the gallery about 11:15 to find it was locked up tight and there was no sign of Chris or Marilyn though we could see all his painting gear through the window.

What to do? Well we went shopping! Tee shirts and cigars and more other tourist stuff than you can shake several sticks at! Got tired of the very obnoxious salesmen and it was getting warm…ah, an iced coffee would hit the spot!  Of course not a Starbucks in sight but we did spy Baja Coffee Company and while enjoying a most excellent iced latte noted that they had free WiFi. The other clue was the half dozen or so other customers tapping away on laptops inside!

When we logged on after the obligatory email check we had a look at FaceBook and another friend in Cabo that we had been trying to get in touch with had sent a message.

Jenny sent her location and said she was in her office all day which turned out to be right next to where we parked the car!

On our way there we walked by the Golden Cactus again. This time the cleaners were there and made us understand that Chris and Marilyn were up in Todos Santos for the day. Of course we had completely forgotten about the big Todos Santos Art Festival.

We did find Jenny’s office in the beautiful building right on the harbor. She and her husband are the marketing reps for this huge development on the West Cape  called Diamante.  

After a good chat we headed back to the RV for guess what? More Margaritas and grilled the most excellent tuna that the one of our most excellent travelling companions (an intrepid fisherperson) had gifted us with!

Friday February 10

The beach right in front of Prince Reindeer at Los Barriles

Up early for the trip to Los Barriles.  We are supposed to be ready to roll by 10 but for some reason everyone is lining up by 8:30!!!  Anyway, we join the caravan only to discover that one of our group has developed a major  problem somewhere in the engine.  Large quantities of smoke being emitted when he accelerates or decelerates. 

We all pull over and the “mechanically inclined” huddle around the rig giving advice, etc.  They collectively suggest we proceed onto the rest of the tour.  Through San Jose del Cabo and onto the toll highway.  For 88 pesos we get to travel quite a few miles on wide paved highway!!!  Such a deal!!!  Just past the toll booth we pull over for a break and to have another look at the injured RV.  It is still smoking but the driver wants to continue.  Our (Ed, Buck, Heather, and Ross) opinion is that he should stay in Cabo and get professional help instead of travelling into parts unknown where mechanics can be scarce.

Again we hit the mountainous terrain and try to keep up with the caravan.  In about 3 hours we have reached Los Barriles.  Villa Serena RV park is on the beach by the Sea of Cortez.  This is the wind surfing/kite surfing capital of the world (so they say) and as we set up camp we see dozens of kite surfers on the water right in front of us.  Not my cup of tea but impressive nonetheless.  The scenery is breath taking and we all just stare out at the sea with mouths open and eyes wide.  This is heaven!!!

The view from Prince Reindeer just after sunrise

Dinner tonight is at Triny's, a local restaurant,  and everything is great.  The waiter looked at Ross’ hoodie, noticed the Fresno lettering, pointed at Ross and said “Go Bulldogs”!!  Bulldogs are the Fresno State football team.  Ed finally got his huachinango frito (whole fried snapper) the rest of us had shrimp of some sort or an assortment of Mexican food and of course guacamole and flan!

Saturday February 11

Sunrise over Bahia Las Palmas, Los Barriles, BCS, MX

Lots of talk about the crippled RV (too much oil and no transmission fluid – not a good combination) and lots of walking the beach or just sitting around enjoying the sun.  We buy some tamales and empanadas from  a travelling salesman and talk to a couple of people who stay here for 6 months at a time.

One of the trucks on the way to the pools got a little stuck

A small group of us travelled by our own 4X4 vehicles through an arroyo to a small waterfall and pond.  The water was not as cold as we thought it might be and the water is clear ++.  There has also been some major work done in the area as there are zip lines everywhere………..No, we didn’t try them!!!  Kind of a small amusement park of sorts!!! 

The pool and waterfall

Dinner tonight is at Three Dog Corner where the two main streets of Los Barriles split.

Chowing down at Tres Perros (Three Dogs) Buck had steak AND  papas rellena!

A family has “adopted” the corner and serves dinner every Friday and Saturday night. A fellow Canadian who lives here about 6 months of the year helped show us around, and understand how things happen here.  She and her husband have also been on our tour three years ago and know John and Becky very well. Heather had a hot dog and quesadilla.  The hot dog came loaded with onions, salsa, sauce, etc. and was a little spicy. 

The quesadilla must have been good because it was gone in a flash.  The rest of us had papas rellenas con carne………baked potato stuffed with beef. And Buck elected to have a steak as well.

Buck on his way to 'dress' his papas rellena (stuffed potato)

These potatoes were huge, wrapped in foil and piled high with butter, cheese, corn, onions, and about 1/2 pound of sliced beef.  VERY good.  There is a salad/condiment bar of sorts where you can add anything to your meal that you think it needs. Needless to say there were all kinds of vegetables and some sauces...a couple of which were fairly spicy!

We had to bring our own beer as they only have soft drinks. It is clearly a successful enterprise as every seat was filled with hungry gringos and gringas!!

Great evening and we toddled back to the RV for a nightcap under the amazing stars and moon!!

Sunday February 12

One of the road hazards when driving in Mexico!

Up bright and early for another spectacular sunrise and to get ready for a trip to La Trinidad RV Ranch in La Ribera for brunch.  

The owner of La Trinidad has a good sense of humor!

The buffet brunch had been arranged by the alternate wagon master we met in Cabo.  The RV park is not on the beach but still very clean and well organized.  The restaurant was packed and we were invited to find our own tables.  Buffet included one free Bloody Mary and had scrambled eggs, sausages, chorizo, bacon, potatoes, refried beans, chilaquilles ( a tortilla/cheese/pepper dish,)  ham slices, and cubed beef in a cream sauce.  There were also pancakes, toast, and French toast.  Not bad for 240 pesos each!!! 

Ross played Santa/Cupid and gave out candy roses to all the ladies…..shameless advertising.  And both Buck and Ross (the two Santas on vacation) had pictures taken with quite a few women….fun times.

The dining room featured a large number of bird feeders just outstide...all kinds of birds including Heathers favorite! A Cardinal!!!

After brunch we took the back road back to Los Barriles and saw a major new development in progress then on to El Triunfo to see the remains of the silver mines there.  

The chimney used at the smelter is massive and was built by Mssr. Eiffel…..the same man who built the Eiffel Tower in Paris.  Approximately 1000 tonnes of silver was taken from these mines by a consortium of English, French and German mining companies in the early part of the nineteenth century.

Met Jose Luis a local resident who for 200 pesos each took us around the smelter area, the cemetery, and showed us one of the mine shafts.  His English was not great but with Ed’s Spanish and his English we got to understand each other. 

The 'English' cemetery. No names or dates on the 13 tombs which appear to have been carefully rebuilt

Then into El Triunfo  where we found the museum of music.  

These buildings house about 40 pianos and other musical instruments.  We walked into a recital hall (very live acoustics).  Sitting in the middle of the room was a 10 foot Baldwin piano in pristine condition. 

This one dates from 1830

We are still blown away that in the middle of nowhere there is a music museum  with that many pianos just sitting there in the open, arid, air.  Unbelievable!!!

Back to the RV and walk the dogs.  

Just some of the California Brown Pelicans we are sharing the beach with

Then a quick nap and a late dinner………….it’s clean out the frig night!!!!

Teddy stressing.....

The 'other' side of our parking spots at Los Barriles...parked to maximize the view!

One of our neighbors....they towed the trailer in, and built the deck and  palapa around it....very nice couple from Maple Ridge who spend about six months a year down here!  Thou shalt not covet!