Tecolote to Los Barriles

Monday  February 6

Off from Tecolote and on our way to Cabo San Lucas.  We have driven this road in the past and are expecting little difficulties.  The road looks to be rather straight and being that it is a major part of the highway system we expect it to be wide with good shoulders………….WRONG!!!!  The road to Todos Santos is great, but just south of there we run into construction. 

It appears the engineers for this highway improvement have a warped sense of humour.  There are long stretches of dirt roads, potholes, dust, massive machinery, and flag people all skirting around the new portion of the road.  But then there is what appears to be an equally long stretch of pavement – straight, paved, and wide. 

Then, and this is where the twisted sense of humour comes into play,  when we get on the paved portion, there are topes (speed bumps) everywhere so again we have to slow down.  And these topes are not just little rough patches………….no, topes come in many forms – small serial bumps that can extend for ¼ mile, small speed bumps on either side of a township, or massively large bumps that can take out an undercarriage in the blink of an eye.  And of course there are the ‘phantom’ topes…these are ones that diabolical highway types PAINT on the road to aggravate hapless turistas!!

When  we finally reach Cabo and find the RV park  it is large, tiered, and has a great view of the ocean. After settling in we head out to that mecca for all RVers……….Wal-Mart/Costco.  And guess what?  Both stores look just like the ones in the US/Canada!!

We have contacted our friends, Gail and Larry and they are going to meet us for dinner  at the restaurant in the RV park which, it turns out is one of their favorite spots!

The development along the corridor between San Jose del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas

The view from the restaurant attached to the RV park is breathtaking.  And the dinner was great.  First some margaritas all around, then appys of guacamole and chips, tortilla soup, then main course of tuna for Ross and Ed cannot remember what he had through the haze of too much tequila.  All we remember was the dinner was great and the company was even better. 

For desert  we, of course, had flan…….more margaritas (which were a little too tart for everyone so the waiter brought the bottle of Grand Marnier and the good tequila so he could free pour to get the sweetness up), a round of tequila shooters compliments of  the manager who realized he had two Santas at his restaurant. We stupidly topped the evening off with Spanish coffee au flambé – impressive but we didn’t really need the extra alcohol.  We poured ourselves home and passed out!  Like we said, great dinner!!!!

Tuesday  February  7

We took Heather to San Jose del Cabo so she could get her hair done, we could get our laundry done, and Ross could get his crown re-attached..but we could not find Larry or Gail.  We left the laundry at the lavanderia and took a tour around the town (my has that town changed – construction everywhere) then sat down for a coffee that turned into a lunch. 

Waiter was great and easy on the eyes (if you know what I mean).  The café had free Wi-Fi and that is how we found out our appointments were for the next day!!  So off to explore some more. 

The tiny town of La Playa San Jose (just east of SJDC on the estuary)  used to be difficult to get to through dry river beds, dirty, dusty roads and hair pin turns.  The village had a few permanent residents (usually all fishermen)  a couple of bars and two tiny grocery stores.  It was on the other side of the estuary from San Jose and people usually only went there to get a fishing trip in small pangas drawn up on the beach.  Today the road is four lanes over the arroyo with a massive marina housing multi-million boats, and a fleet of shining pangas!

The town still only has two stores but they have expanded and are now called super minis!!  After our expedition it’s back to the RV and enjoy the afternoon sun.  Some of the caravan have gone on a fishing trip to try to catch some tuna. 

Later that day we went back in to San Jose to pick up our laundry and show Buck a bit of the town.  Dinner was again at the same café and the same waiter served us.  He said that he usually works 12 to 15 hours a day , six days a week.  His English is great as he also said he used to work as a waiter in Seattle.  We asked why he left……….his answer…….”It wasn’t my choice.”  In other words, Immigration had probably asked him to leave!!!!

Wednesday February 8

Back to San Jose for Heather’s hair appointment and Ross’ dental appointment.  As some of you know Ross has a deep phobic fear of anything dental so he popped an Ativan in the morning and another closer to the time of his appointment………the rest of the day was a bit of a blur for him!!!!!  Met Larry at their beautiful home and he showed  us around the gardens…amazing.  There are papaya trees, plumeria, orange, grapefruit, tangelo, and lime trees, a sparkling swimming pool and a view out to the 7^th tee on the municipal golf course.  The house has 5 bedrooms (4 up and one down, a bedroom/office combo). 

No one in the beauty salon spoke English and Heather does not speak Spanish…a problem!  Thank God Larry was along and could explain what she wanted.  Then off to the dentist.  While Ross was filling in the forms Larry and the dentist started talking car races.  They race off road a number of times a year and were getting ready for a race near La Paz in the next couple of weeks. 

The dentist looked at the tooth, and then the crown.  He asked if Ross spoke Spanish……..”Enough to get myself in trouble” said Ross.  He then apologized for his English but explained that he could put the crown back on but only as a temporary solution and that Ross would have to see a dentist when he got back home. 

Some of you know that Super Glue was invented accidently and has been used for household purposes and in industrial applications for many years, so it should come as no surprise to hear that this intrepid dentist cleaned the tooth, cleaned the crown, then smeared Super Glue on both surfaces and bonded them together.  After a little bit of clean up, Ross was out of the chair and both Larry and the dentist were back talking car racing!!!  The cost…….$450 pesos (about $40)!!!!

After that bit of drama we picked Heather up (hair looks good and as she says she isn’t bald so it has been a good day) and we all went out for lunch.  Gail met us at the restaurant and the meal was great.  

When Ross and Ed first met Gail and Larry they had a B&B, also a restaurant (Salvador Deli), and were in the property management business.  They now have closed the B&B, sold the restaurant, and have cut back on the number of properties they manage.

The restaurant has gone through a couple of hands and is now a delightful space called Habaneros which is where we had  lunch.  Great times.  Explored a bit more of San Jose then back home.  

Thursday February 9

This was our day to ‘do’ Cabo San Lucas.  We wanted to connect with Chris MacClure and his partner whom we had met on previous excursions. He is a very talented painter and they used to own the Golden Cactus Gallery. We had heard through Gail and Larry that they were looking forward to seeing and that they would be in the gallery every day from ten AM to noon.

We got to the gallery about 11:15 to find it was locked up tight and there was no sign of Chris or Marilyn though we could see all his painting gear through the window.

What to do? Well we went shopping! Tee shirts and cigars and more other tourist stuff than you can shake several sticks at! Got tired of the very obnoxious salesmen and it was getting warm…ah, an iced coffee would hit the spot!  Of course not a Starbucks in sight but we did spy Baja Coffee Company and while enjoying a most excellent iced latte noted that they had free WiFi. The other clue was the half dozen or so other customers tapping away on laptops inside!

When we logged on after the obligatory email check we had a look at FaceBook and another friend in Cabo that we had been trying to get in touch with had sent a message.

Jenny sent her location and said she was in her office all day which turned out to be right next to where we parked the car!

On our way there we walked by the Golden Cactus again. This time the cleaners were there and made us understand that Chris and Marilyn were up in Todos Santos for the day. Of course we had completely forgotten about the big Todos Santos Art Festival.

We did find Jenny’s office in the beautiful building right on the harbor. She and her husband are the marketing reps for this huge development on the West Cape  called Diamante.  

After a good chat we headed back to the RV for guess what? More Margaritas and grilled the most excellent tuna that the one of our most excellent travelling companions (an intrepid fisherperson) had gifted us with!

Friday February 10

The beach right in front of Prince Reindeer at Los Barriles

Up early for the trip to Los Barriles.  We are supposed to be ready to roll by 10 but for some reason everyone is lining up by 8:30!!!  Anyway, we join the caravan only to discover that one of our group has developed a major  problem somewhere in the engine.  Large quantities of smoke being emitted when he accelerates or decelerates. 

We all pull over and the “mechanically inclined” huddle around the rig giving advice, etc.  They collectively suggest we proceed onto the rest of the tour.  Through San Jose del Cabo and onto the toll highway.  For 88 pesos we get to travel quite a few miles on wide paved highway!!!  Such a deal!!!  Just past the toll booth we pull over for a break and to have another look at the injured RV.  It is still smoking but the driver wants to continue.  Our (Ed, Buck, Heather, and Ross) opinion is that he should stay in Cabo and get professional help instead of travelling into parts unknown where mechanics can be scarce.

Again we hit the mountainous terrain and try to keep up with the caravan.  In about 3 hours we have reached Los Barriles.  Villa Serena RV park is on the beach by the Sea of Cortez.  This is the wind surfing/kite surfing capital of the world (so they say) and as we set up camp we see dozens of kite surfers on the water right in front of us.  Not my cup of tea but impressive nonetheless.  The scenery is breath taking and we all just stare out at the sea with mouths open and eyes wide.  This is heaven!!!

The view from Prince Reindeer just after sunrise

Dinner tonight is at Triny's, a local restaurant,  and everything is great.  The waiter looked at Ross’ hoodie, noticed the Fresno lettering, pointed at Ross and said “Go Bulldogs”!!  Bulldogs are the Fresno State football team.  Ed finally got his huachinango frito (whole fried snapper) the rest of us had shrimp of some sort or an assortment of Mexican food and of course guacamole and flan!

Saturday February 11

Sunrise over Bahia Las Palmas, Los Barriles, BCS, MX

Lots of talk about the crippled RV (too much oil and no transmission fluid – not a good combination) and lots of walking the beach or just sitting around enjoying the sun.  We buy some tamales and empanadas from  a travelling salesman and talk to a couple of people who stay here for 6 months at a time.

One of the trucks on the way to the pools got a little stuck

A small group of us travelled by our own 4X4 vehicles through an arroyo to a small waterfall and pond.  The water was not as cold as we thought it might be and the water is clear ++.  There has also been some major work done in the area as there are zip lines everywhere………..No, we didn’t try them!!!  Kind of a small amusement park of sorts!!! 

The pool and waterfall

Dinner tonight is at Three Dog Corner where the two main streets of Los Barriles split.

Chowing down at Tres Perros (Three Dogs) Buck had steak AND  papas rellena!

A family has “adopted” the corner and serves dinner every Friday and Saturday night. A fellow Canadian who lives here about 6 months of the year helped show us around, and understand how things happen here.  She and her husband have also been on our tour three years ago and know John and Becky very well. Heather had a hot dog and quesadilla.  The hot dog came loaded with onions, salsa, sauce, etc. and was a little spicy. 

The quesadilla must have been good because it was gone in a flash.  The rest of us had papas rellenas con carne………baked potato stuffed with beef. And Buck elected to have a steak as well.

Buck on his way to 'dress' his papas rellena (stuffed potato)

These potatoes were huge, wrapped in foil and piled high with butter, cheese, corn, onions, and about 1/2 pound of sliced beef.  VERY good.  There is a salad/condiment bar of sorts where you can add anything to your meal that you think it needs. Needless to say there were all kinds of vegetables and some sauces...a couple of which were fairly spicy!

We had to bring our own beer as they only have soft drinks. It is clearly a successful enterprise as every seat was filled with hungry gringos and gringas!!

Great evening and we toddled back to the RV for a nightcap under the amazing stars and moon!!

Sunday February 12

One of the road hazards when driving in Mexico!

Up bright and early for another spectacular sunrise and to get ready for a trip to La Trinidad RV Ranch in La Ribera for brunch.  

The owner of La Trinidad has a good sense of humor!

The buffet brunch had been arranged by the alternate wagon master we met in Cabo.  The RV park is not on the beach but still very clean and well organized.  The restaurant was packed and we were invited to find our own tables.  Buffet included one free Bloody Mary and had scrambled eggs, sausages, chorizo, bacon, potatoes, refried beans, chilaquilles ( a tortilla/cheese/pepper dish,)  ham slices, and cubed beef in a cream sauce.  There were also pancakes, toast, and French toast.  Not bad for 240 pesos each!!! 

Ross played Santa/Cupid and gave out candy roses to all the ladies…..shameless advertising.  And both Buck and Ross (the two Santas on vacation) had pictures taken with quite a few women….fun times.

The dining room featured a large number of bird feeders just outstide...all kinds of birds including Heathers favorite! A Cardinal!!!

After brunch we took the back road back to Los Barriles and saw a major new development in progress then on to El Triunfo to see the remains of the silver mines there.  

The chimney used at the smelter is massive and was built by Mssr. Eiffel…..the same man who built the Eiffel Tower in Paris.  Approximately 1000 tonnes of silver was taken from these mines by a consortium of English, French and German mining companies in the early part of the nineteenth century.

Met Jose Luis a local resident who for 200 pesos each took us around the smelter area, the cemetery, and showed us one of the mine shafts.  His English was not great but with Ed’s Spanish and his English we got to understand each other. 

The 'English' cemetery. No names or dates on the 13 tombs which appear to have been carefully rebuilt

Then into El Triunfo  where we found the museum of music.  

These buildings house about 40 pianos and other musical instruments.  We walked into a recital hall (very live acoustics).  Sitting in the middle of the room was a 10 foot Baldwin piano in pristine condition. 

This one dates from 1830

We are still blown away that in the middle of nowhere there is a music museum  with that many pianos just sitting there in the open, arid, air.  Unbelievable!!!

Back to the RV and walk the dogs.  

Just some of the California Brown Pelicans we are sharing the beach with

Then a quick nap and a late dinner………….it’s clean out the frig night!!!!

Teddy stressing.....

The 'other' side of our parking spots at Los Barriles...parked to maximize the view!

One of our neighbors....they towed the trailer in, and built the deck and  palapa around it....very nice couple from Maple Ridge who spend about six months a year down here!  Thou shalt not covet!

Santispac Beach to La Paz

Prince Reindeer and the little car on the Beach at Santispac

February 1-2

Santispac Beach-Bahia Concepcion 

Buck and Heather took their laundry into the nearest town (Mulege) to the lavanderia.  These laundries will wash, dry, fold, and package your laundry in under three hours for cheap, cheap, cheap.  They paid $230 pesos for a whole lot of laundry. 

We drove Heather into town later on that day to pick up the clothes and for a look-see and some shopping.  We show her a tortillaria (tortilla factory), a bakery, and pick up a bag of oranges ($75 pesos for a 30 pound bag).  A quick conversion is 10 pesos to the dollar……that’s not exact but gives you a rough idea.

We had bought some lobster and shrimp so grilled them (a little garlic, a little butter, and a lot of heat from the grill…….YUUUMMMM!!) for dinner.

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We had a beach party on our last night in this paradise where Becky and John (our intrepid wagonmasters) provided the chicken, booze, and party atmosphere (lights, lit palm trees, music, etc. the handy-dandy Onan 5KW generator in our ‘basement’ supplied the power on this otherwise dry beach.)  Buck, Wayne, and I strung some LED lights around the area and hooked them up.  Buck and I also had a little fun with a piñata that we had bought in Guerrero Negro  we filled it with candy and hung it from the roof of one of the lean-tos.  Great time and a lot of laughs.

Friday February 3

We are travelling from Paradise onto Constitucion and Ed is feeling a little more relaxed on the road.  We are actually keeping up with the group sort of!

Constitucion is a hole in the wall……..a wide space in the road……..kind of a dead town.  I am sure that there are very nice people there but nothing is happening there.  The RV park also is not the nicest either.  Dirty, dusty, with faulty wiring, and interesting water hookups….in short, very Mexican!

When Ed went to connect the sewer line he discovered that the coffee can over the sewer pipe held ++ lovely red  cockroaches that scurried away when we lifted the can.  Unfortunately Heather, who was standing right there and almost lost her lunch!!  Thankfully we are only staying one night and not stopping here on the way back through!

Picked up a couple large bottles of purified water at the local grocery store (after having to pay for two new bottles) and Buck picked up some fuel.

February 4-5

Parked in the dunes on Tecolote Beach just north of La Paz

We are on our way to La Paz and Tecolote Beach.  La Paz is the capital of Baja California Sur and is growing incredibly quickly.  We stayed here a few years back and cannot believe the changes we see.

Tecolote Beach is north of La Paz and just north of  Pichelingue which is the dock for ferries to the mainland.

We are seeing a huge construction boom throughout Baja California. The recession crippling the rest of North America and the world does not seem to be affecting Mexico!  The only thing seeming to slow Mexico down is the vast amount of negative publicity in the press about the violence being caused by the drug cartels.  But even that has not seemed to slow growth in the Cape region of Baja! 

Through La Paz and onto Tecolote Beach.  Another glorious beach with dunes aplenty.  We picked out our spot on the beach and set up camp.  The view is breath taking and the dogs love being able to run on the sand.  We do have to be careful though as we have seen a couple of dead puffer fish (toxic!)  on the beach and our Mojo loves to roll in dead fish carcasses. 

Heather and Ross are sent out to explore the restaurants along the beach only to find just one place remains open….but they have a great bar and we sit down for a drink.  The menu is also looking good so we are off to find the other guys to drag them to dinner……..which was great.

 While exploring La Paz we came across this curious little bitty hotel with the most unusual lobby absolutely crammed with stuff...antiques and oddities and more than a bit of junque!

We explored La Paz with Buck and Heather showing them some of the sights we knew.  The pottery place was closed as it was Sunday so we Heather could not get the plates she wants. 

We stopped into the information centre where the extraordinarily helpful young man told us about a new restaurant, Sarandeado,  that sounded really interesting.

The back entrance to Sarandeado...look inviting??

After finally finding the place (first found the back entrance next to a car wreckers and the place looked dreadful, but the front entrance – when we found it – was great).  Service was exceptional although it was entirely in Spanish (not a word of English was spoken) and even that was so rapid it was difficult to understand.  We all had either grilled fish or shrimp Sarandeado style which is in a wonderful sauce and it was heaven.  We finished the meal with pastel del tres leches (cake made with three kinds of milk)………….YUUUMMMM!!

The real entrance to Sarandeado

Finished the day by shopping at a new supermarket chain – MEGA – that looks like Costco or Wal-Mart but is totally Mexican.  The place was well lit, well stocked, well-staffed, clean, and quite nice to shop in.  Even had a few other stores in and around the building and the entrance was up a moving ramp.  Impressive.

The moving ramp inside Mega and it was MEGA note the coffee shop in the background...logo look familiar??

Back to the beach at Tecolote and resting for the night.   To get to Tecolote you must drive past the ferry terminal and  the trucks waiting to board this coupled with the HUGE topes can be tricky!  Tecolote is backed by a small range of mountains that has one outcropping of rock that kinda looks like an owl……….hence the name Tecolote (owl).

The ferry leaving from Pichelingue for either Topolobampo or Mazatlan in the sunset

Mexico!

January 26

KOA in Chula Vista to Estero Beach Hotel and RV resort.

Lined up ready to leave the KOA

Hopefully this is not a portent of things to come but Ross opened the frig door and it came off the hinge!!!  We were able to fit it back together and will be very careful with it until we can get it repaired. 

Left San Diego for the border and stopped for a cursory look through.  We had gone with the group two days before and got visas and all the other paper work taken care of. The young customs officer noticed the Christmas card from Carolyn and family with Ross as Santa on the front.  He stopped, looked at the picture, then turned to Ross and asked…….”That you, yes??”  He was quite amazed.

Through Tecate which is clean but still a border town.  

Baja wine country Valle de Guadalupe 

Down the road to a winery that only produces 8500 cases per year and most of that is red.

The barrel room

  Not bad but will improved with age.  As we left the parking lot we scraped the bottom of the rig a bit but got back on the highway and continued  into Ensenada. 

The parking lot!!! really!!!!!!

This is an interesting town with huge breakwaters, a long Malecon, and lots of space for freighter loading.  Roads are OK but no shoulders!!!  

Roads? What roads??

Got into the RV park and settled.  

The park entrance, right on the estuary ¡muy bonita!

Prince Reindeer and our 'twin' waiting to park

El Estero...the estuary. The Palapas mark the bar and restaurant where we went later and just beyond the Pacific breaks on the beach

Very settled indeed!

We would have liked to see more of the town but apparently it is still too close to the border and is quite dangerous to gringos.  The drug cartel is king here.  The RV site overlooks the ocean and bird sanctuary………and marmots…..lots of marmots!

Our first dinner on the road
Turns out Buck likes shrimp! Who knew?? 

The group had the first of daily meetings (this time in the bar) where we had our first margarita in Mexico.  Off to dinner with the group.  Heather and Ross had the garlic shrimp which were great and the margaritas continued to flow!!  We were in bed by 9PM.

January 27

We are getting low on fuel (we had been told that we only needed enough fuel for 125 miles……apparently it’s more like 230 miles.  Let’s hope we can make it that far!!  While getting the car hitched up, Ross popped a piece of gum into his mouth and out came a crown filling on his back molar.  Thankfully the tooth has been fully killed with a good root canal.  No chance to see a dentist until we get to Cabo San Lucas.

The road is mountainous with some very scary hills, but we made it to our first fuel fill up.  One of the group ( A Monaco with the same color scheme as Prince Reindeer) accidently put gasoline in his diesel pusher so they had to have the tank emptied and refilled – can you say…OOPS?! 

After that we were  back on the road and heading to San Quintin, our stop for the day.  Small towns dot the road with each one of them having at least two topes (speed bumps) that can rattle your teeth or drop your transmission if taken too quickly!

We arrive in San Quintin at the El Pabellon RV park. 

Whale skeleton...the first of many we've seen

 This park is a little rough to get into (rocky roads) but we were able to camp on hard packed sand with sand dunes in front of us.  

We took the dogs for a walk on the beach then let them off the leashes.  They were having a great time!  Heather had her two who wanted to explore the salt water.  So here she is standing up to her ankles watching the dogs.  She turned away from the ocean to see what we were doing and got hit with a huge wave!!!  She was soaked from the waist down!!! 

Toughing it out on the beach

 Quick dinner, some libation, and to bed by 8PM.  This travelling stuff is hard work!!!

January 28

San Quintin to Catavina and Rancho Santa Inez

We enter the badlands of BAJA today.  Off down the road by 8AM, pass an inspection point that was checking for guns, ammo, and drugs.  Obviously we don’t look like smugglers as they waved us through with hardly a glance.  We refuelled and took off to a wide space in the road….Rancho Santa Inez. 

Rancho Santa Inez is about 5000 acres in size and was owned by an American woman at one time.  Apparently the government highways crew started to plot out a new highway.  She did not want it where they were going to put it and told them so.  They argued that they knew better and left it at that.  She then got in her car and drove to Mexico City, drove up to the President’s mansion ( a close friend of hers) and had a little chat with him.  Seems the road by her place was miraculously moved…..and then a runway was put in next to the road……this for the governor/President of Mexico to fly in to his new favourite vacation place!!!!  Pays to have friends in high places.  Anyway she passed away a few years ago and the family that worked the land for her has taken over the place.  We pulled the wagons around in a circle and started to settle down. 

Then the accident happened…………..Buck (who never leaves his truck without his keys) left them on the console.  He had also told Heather that she should have her set of keys with her and she had dutifully put them in her purse…….that was in the car.  Anyway, they both got out of the car and one of their dogs jumped up on the armrest and locked the doors!!  About 12 men and assorted women tried to coax the dog back to the same area (no luck), Buck and our fearless leader John went into the nearest town to try and get OnStar to open the doors only to find that OnStar does not work in Mexico!  So with a little ingenuity and lots of swearing a coat hanger was fashioned into a hook  and with 15 people watching finally were able to open the door with very little damage to the truck.

Dinner was a plate of Mexican food (tacos, beans, rice, enchiladas) made by the family who cares for the ranch.  After dinner we were reminded that we would not be able to take any fruit or vegetables past the next checkpoint so many of us raided our larders and supplied the chefs.  The night sky was amazing – stars everywhere and crystal clear.  Buck, Ed, Ross, and one of the other caravan people, Wayne, stood round and watched the world go by while sipping hot chocolate or something stronger.

Next day we were loading up the caravan and Ross took an armload of goodies for the little ones.  Then back on the road.

January 29

Catavina to Guerrero Negro

We had some rough roads in places but that soon opened onto wide smooth spots.  That all came to a sudden stop when we came on 5 miles of road construction.  Dusty, dirty, rough, washboarded trails along an almost finished new highway.  Unfortunately we learned that the contractor pulled out of the project due to some financial concerns and no work has been done on the road for ages!

We arrive at Guerrero Negro and the Malarrimo RV park in good time.  The park is old and rather difficult to get into but somehow we are able to park both the RV and the car.  Tonight we will be having the meeting along with a dinner in the attached restaurant.  But first Buck, Ed, and Ross take off to see sunset out at  the old lighthouse (Faro Viejo.)  Talk about rough roads!!!!  Potholes as big as small VWs, washboards forever, ruts, and all manner of bad driving.  

The old lighthouse has not been used for ages and alongside of the buildings are the remains of an old salt supply line.   This area is one of the world’s largest sea salt mining areas.  Millions of tons of sea salt are sent around the world from this little village.

One of the huge bumpers where seagoing salt ships used to dock. 

What remains of the salt conveyer

Apparently the harbor was prone to silting up and had to be dredged frequently  so the mine moved on

The name Guerrero Negro comes from a story that says an Hawaiian whaling ship was wrecked on the  outer reef around the bay.  The name of the ship was Black Warrior, or Guerrero Negro. 

Back to the RV park in time to catch the last of the meeting and sample a free margarita.  Then a great dinner of scallops, and more libation.  To bed early tonight as we are off to see the whales tomorrow.

January 30

Up early and ready to roll by 8AM (this is getting to be a habit) and waiting for the bus.  Tour guide was very good and gave all kinds of information.  He studied in Georgia USA then came down to Gro Negro for Christmas with his family.  He fell in love with the place and got a job the next day largely because of his Georgia accented English!  

Loading up and heading out

Two weeks later he was taking his first Baja Winter group.  Anyway, he told us that Gro Negro is the world’s largest sea salt mines – most of the salt is used in commercial uses such as road salt.  Then down to the pier and onto the boat.

Heather is not too keen on going to sea but with a good life jacket and a sturdy boat she was OK.  Boat and skipper were excellent and we got out to the whaling grounds quickly.  There are so many whales it’s impossible to count them or keep track of them. 

 Lots of cows and their calves, some singles, some spy hopping (poking their heads out of the water and having a look around), and a few breaching.  

If you look closely you can see that this is a mom and baby

They came close to the boat and a couple of times we were almost able to touch them.  One young one was swimming up the boat and decided to dive.  One flick of his tail not more than 2 feet from the boat and Buck and another of our tour group were soaked to the skin!!!  Thank God Ross brought towels!! 

Not too many predators here as the reef stops most of the killer whales and the bay is too shallow and too warm for other sharks.  

At times we didn’t know where to look as there were whales all around us.  It was amazing………and lots of pictures!!!!

We spotted these two handsome fellows on the trip back in

Back to the RV to change and then off for fish tacos……..we had both shrimp and fish tacos……very good.  Ross noticed a novelty store next to the taco stand and explored it.  With Buck and Ed along later we bought a piñata and some candy to go into it.  There is to be a beach party soon so that may come in handy!!!

Dinner at the same restaurant and it was all very good.  And to bed!!!

January 31

Guerrero Negro to San Ignacio

Today we started out slowly as it is foggy.  We sit at the side of the road waiting for the fog to lift and after 30 minutes decide to chance it anyway.  A little harrowing to say the least.  We climb up the mountains and the fog gradually lifts with good weather and good traveling from then on in.

Set up camp and then into town.  Very old plaza with an equally old church build in 1782.

The town’s museum is dedicated to the cave paintings in the area.  

Large paintings on rock walls that have to be about 20 feet high.  How primitive man managed all that is beyond me!!  

Stopped at the plaza and had an ice cream cone, then back to the RV. 

Had a drink at the restaurant attached to the RV/hotel we are staying at, and then had dinner there too!!  Their margaritas are apparently great.  Ed had a few, but Ross’ tongue is quite sore from scraping it along the jagged edges of the missing crown so he just had beer.  They only use ice, tequila, lime juice and another splash of tequila on the top.  Dinner was great with shrimp, steak and more margaritas and beer.

February 1

San Ignacio to Santispac Beach

We leave San Ignacio and head into the mountains …. Again.   Finally we drop down to the Sea of Cortez and continue onto the little village of Mulege (Pronounced:  MooLaHay) and then onto the beach of Santispac.  We will be staying two days here and the beach is beautiful.  

There are some Canadians who camp here all winter long!!  Also this is the first time we have experienced the moving department store.  

There are all kinds  of locals who walk the beach between RVs selling jewelry, clothes, fruit, veggies, baking, etc. , etc.  Fun times!!!

The catch of the day from the 'moving department store'  fresh lobster tails, shrimp (though that sounds like an oxymoron...they were huge! We also got fresh veggies, amazing baking, (pan dulce and jalapeno cheese bread)

Santispac used to be an actual small village but the land was sold and everyone was evicted. Their shacks were destroyed and then the new owner/developer pulled out of the project so the beach was left to dry campers.